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  1. I simply loved Fez when I visited a couple of years ago. I think it’s still proper Morocco, while Marrakech is already a little bit too touristy. And I got lost in Fez só many times. I loved Café Clock in Fez and we stayed in a Riad called Lune et Soleil which was just amazing (and had little turtoise running around!)

  2. Two things I enjoyed in Fes: I wanted a coffee so badly, but the cafés were full of men who glared at me when I went by (woman alone). Then I saw small groups of women going into a bakery. There was a tea room upstairs. I went in–all women. It didn’t take long for some to approach me and start talking–they were curious about the solo Western woman. It ended up a very fun group conversation and cultural exchange.
    The other thing I did was hire the youngest kid who offered to be my guide. One is hounded incessantly by would-be guides, but as soon as I had one, I had royal peace. Since he was young, he took me where I wanted to go. He did show me his home, and his mother was beside herself with joy that her son was earning some money. Also, I didn’t get lost. He let me wander to admire the architecture and take photos, and when I was “lost” would lead me back to a main road.

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